Farley Ledge

General Info:

Ah, Farley Ledge, possibly the only respectable sport climbing spot in all of MA.  The slopey gneiss offers everything from 5.8 to 5.14+ projects.  The view is great, and access is what, like, a 5-minute walk from the parking lot?  Oh, plus there’s a shitton of bouldering, including the super-classic Dave Graham First Ascent, Speed of Life.  Sounds too good to be true.  Not quite…

Here’s the catch:  The agreement between the WMCC and the local residents who actually own much of the land is this: We, the climbers, get full access to the amazing climbing in the area, build a couple lots, and bolt badass sport routes.  However, a guidebook cannot be created, as it would draw too much attention to the area.

I’m OK with that.

Be super-nice to the residents, and make sure you leave with everything you bring in.  Consult the map for parking and directions (there is a recommended parking area for bouldering and for sport climbing).

Links:

Not much more could be said beyond what the WMCC has on their site: Farley Ledge INFO

Video:

Gneiss Days, a video made by Andy Billipp, features Farley Ledge, along with lots of other great Massachusetts climbing spots:

Gneiss Days from Eastern Climber on Vimeo.