The past month has been a non-stop bouldering adventure in Harriman State Park, Little Falls, NYC, and The Hideaway.  Since no one likes hearing an hour-by-hour account of a bouldering trip, I’ll just keep it to the fun projects.

Josh Larson, Josh Surette, Jerome Boutaud, and I put a considerable amount of work into Y2K9, which was nearly sent a few times.  Jerome and Josh L. worked the Mellinium Traverse, both nearly snagging the ten-point problem, and Larsen completed a couple other problems on the Mellenium Boulder.  Josh Surette seemed weaker than usual, but this was attributed to his attire, which included a flannel shirt that probably added 10 lbs to his weight.  I stubbornly worked Tips Away (V7), in my ongoing quest for finger strength, but got shut down all morning.

The day came to a close on the project to the right of Y2K9, a direct line out of the overhang:  A good flake to a left-hand crimp, bump right into a flat ledge underneath, and make a huge throw out to the lip onto a two-finger, one-digit crimp… and your feet cut.  It’s still a project.

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Pat Cummings and I stopped in a cave in Little Falls on the way back East from Thanksgiving, where I hear that Andy Salo did much of the development.  We put together a direct line out of the left side of the cave, probably V5-6, and very fun.  Then we moved over for a night session on some hard and powerful lines to the right side, and for some reason a second wind kept us pulling hard well after dark.  Feeling fresh, I landed some of the biggest moves I’ve ever tried.  If I had to grade on the direct line to the right, perhaps V7-8.  Also, we conceived of a large loop within the cave, involving a couple obvious eliminates, that could be V10+.  If anyone knows the names of the routes in there, please email me.
As a side note, that cave stays dry in the rain, and is a very good time… it has everything from overhanging jug hauls to crimp fests. Food for thought if you live in the area.  And it’s sure to get you stronger.

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Harriman:

Numerous sessions in the Master Bedroom.  On 11/29, Pat Cummings sent Boner - V7. It links the Pumpernickel Taco Extension with Penis Head (a route near Fish Head).

Also, Josh Larsen nearly broke his ass attempting Pumpernickel Taco Extension, despite 7 crash pads and my [now unreliable] spotting.  His left butt cheek landed on sharp rocks in a 1ft-by-1ft gap in the pads.  However, the project is very close to completion, and I’ll wait for the official send to throw around grades.

Harriman State Park is also our primary focus for some exploration and development this winter, with the goal being an official guide to bouldering in the park.  Anyone know Andy Salo or John Kuphal?  I need to ask them some questions…

Pat making the third move in
Pumpernickel Taco Extension.

And we need a damned photographer.  After my miniDV got stolen on a recent business trip, our climbing trips have been nearly picture-less.  I’ve been resorting to my fall-back: the cell phone camera.  We don’t need Ansel Adams or anything, just a guy with an SLR that can make a decent composition, and non-climbers are welcome.

Stipend includes adventure, picturesque landscapes, sustenance, and beer.

A taste of things to come: Competition in New Haven, CT, followed by some more Harriman action, perhaps with our favorite climber-slash-architect…