• Izzy Somers
• Justin Surgent
• Randy Weld
• Jim Somers
• Mike Sallade
• Dave Wetmore
• Travis Anderson
• Evan Heenehan
• Jim Whelan
• Dan Savage
• Andy Kourafas
• Douglas Clark
• Ri Frankestock
• Peter Kamitsis

The day began with the Citizens’ Open Qualifier.  Like most comps, prizes were awarded to the top competitors in each category, Recreational, Intermediate, and Advanced, with the winners of the Open category advancing to the finals round.

Arguably the most difficult problem was no.60 (pink tape), a one-move-wonder, starting with (the crux) a right hand throw up to a small half-digit crimp off of two wide compression slopers.  It saw very few sends all day, stumping some of the best climbers in the room.

The sheer number of enjoyable boulder problems was staggering – each was unique and challenging – high-quality, not cheesy.

When asked to sum up the main inspiration behind the routesetting in one word, one setter responded, “MakeDaveWetmoreHappy.”

Four hours later, after most forearms were reduced to battery acid, the qualifiers came to a close, and scorecards were handed in… and something was announced that one scarcely hears in their lifetime: “Free beer.”  Yes, pizza and soda could be purchased for $1 for two slices and a cup of soda, or you could just drink free beer.  You can guess that most of my cash ended up in the keg-tender’s tip jar, but the pizza was good too, and they made sure enough was purchased to feed a small army of climbers.

I would like to draw special attention to these profound ideas: free beer, and don’t run out of pizza.  Perhaps a MetroRock original. Good job guys.

In any case, while the open competitors were forced out of the gym or into isolation while the finals problems were being set, a dyno competition took place.  The thing about dyno comps is that, while they always sound like a spectacular idea, people jumping into the air trying to reach a ridiculously-high hold with their right middle finger (and missing) gets old, fast – even for a 10-year-old.  But wait.

Even more MetroRock genius.

While this comp is happening, Bryan Rafferty worked the mic, wearing a sombrero.  In fact, over the course of the day, he donned no fewer than three pieces of unusual headware.  He bartered with the tired crowd of small children, parents, and competitors with pieces of free shwag in return for loud cheers for those flying through the air behind him.  The strategy worked beautifully.  Plus, lots of people got free stuff.

Bryan Rafferty, when asked for his thoughts on motivating the crowd: “Well, you know, everyone’s here to have a good time, you know? It’s like, you just need to give them what they want, and everyone’s happy.”  Pragmatic.  Eloquent.  He added, “I practice every morning in the mirror… with a megaphone:  ’BRYAN RAFFERTY, YOU ARE ELOQUENT. YOU ARE HANDSOME.’”

After the dyno comp ended, pretty much everyone got a MadRock gift sack, containing Climbing Magazine, Urban Climber, and a bunch of stickers.  Holy shit – marketing geniuses.  See picture.

Awards for the rest of the competitors were handed out, and then the fun began.

Men’s finals problems:

Problem 1: V8

Problem 2: V9

Problem 3: V9+

Problem 4: V10/10+

The women started things out.  Problem 1 was flashed by most of the women without too much of a problem.  Problem 2 was a difficult, crimpy traverse around an arret, which was slightly harder, but seemed to fit most of their styles pretty well.  Then came female Problem 3, which separated the strong from the inhumanly crazy strong.  A looong, powerful, and very overhung problem around a “boob” feature, finished on a roof.  Francesca Metcalf, the overall female winner, sent on her second try.  The forth problem was a bit of a combination of the other three, except more difficult.  If I recall correctly, Francesca was the only one to finish this problem.

The men’s problems went like this: Problem 1 was flashed by all but a few of the guys.  Those who didn’t seemed to have all spent a considerable amount of time on a very long green-taped problem in the qualifiers, burning them out quite a bit.  Problem 2, slightly harder, posed a significant challenge to many of them, but most were able to crank through to its end.  Problem 3 was a similar filter for the men as it was for the women.  After watching the competitors work through the sequence, one could easily predict who the top three would be.  Last came Men’s Problem 4 – this thing was a beast.  The fact that any one of them could pull on it after 6+ hours of climbing boggles my mind. No one finished it, but Brian Kim came within one move from the top, securing his first place finish.  Coincidentally, Brian was also kind enough to answer some questions for me:

EC: “So, where are you from?  You in school? All that jazz.”

BK: “I grew up in Central Jersey, but I’m going to school at Drexel University right now.  I’m studying architecture.”

EC: “I just watched your ascent of Still Life (5.14b, Summersville Lake, WV) on climbing.com, and I have to admit, I peed in my pants a little as you got through the upper crux.  However, would you say that Still Life or China Beach would be a better 10-year project for me?”

BK: “Tough question…both lines are absolutely gorgeous (that’s mainly why I put in the time and effort to climb both routes). But since you’re asking me to choose one, it would have to be China Beach. That route is world-class. And if you were to spend 10 years on a route it should be that one.”

EC: “You said you grew up in Central Jersey.  Where did you first climb?  And what was your favorite place to climb in the area for sport? Bouldering?”

BK: “There was ‘Wall Street Rock Gym’ (hands-down the best gym ever) about 5 minutes down the road from my house. Unfortunately, after climbing there for 5 years it closed since the lease expired (and the owner probably had enough shenanigans from us most likely). The Gunks, NY is where my climbing happens outside. I’m a trad dork (my nickname ‘gearboy’ says it all), but I play on the boulders there occasionally. But my favorite areas are (for now): Trad-Gunks; Boulders-Cresciano; Sport-Ceuse”

EC: “How about overall, best place to take a road trip?”

BK: “Nothing beats a good eurotrip. The fun just happens over there. It really does make life feel so boring when back in the states. “

EC: “Who was the climber you most looked up to as a youngster?”

BK: “I first saw Alex Lowe in some videos when I first started climbing. Him and friends were climbing some insane 100+ pitch big walls. That was just absurd in my mind (it still is); His attitude and skills were inspiring. Unfortunately, he passed in ’99 from an avalanche. He definitely inspired me when I was young, and I still very much strive to be like him.”

EC: “As an aspiring architect studying at Drexel University in the prestigious Antoinette Westphal College of Media Arts & Design [let me know if I got that right], what is your take on the overall design and composition, architecturally and aesthetically, of climbing gymnasiums these days?”

BK: “Climbing walls/gyms are in a transformation stage at the moment (I think). Walls are just barely starting to be built with aesthetics in mind rather than just satisfy all the angles a climber might experience. We are starting to see some elegant wall designs in climbing competitions in the states and internationally already. I think we all like climbing on nice looking things (I certainly do). But the major factor is the lack of money (it always is). Climbing walls really have the potential to be much more aesthetic, inspiring, and artistic. So until more money flows into the market (more importantly, more money to the architect…and not so much to the engineer) my down-time in studio is spent sketching million dollar concept walls for wishful future use. My senior thesis will involve this area.”

EC: “Plans after graduation? “

BK: “Climb. Make money.”

EC: “What is your favorite color?”

BK: “Grey.”

EC: “Megan Fox is pretty hot, isn’t she?”