Eastern Climber » Beta

Fee to Boulder at Niagra Glen

NS — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 19:30:36 +0000

Starting on October 1, 2011, you’re going to have to pay $20 for a bouldering season pass to boulder at Niagra Glen. I heard about it on Gripped.

Everyone should remember that bouldering brings many more recreational visitors to an area, which requires more maintenance. We can still climb there, so be happy! Just remember to get that pass.

More info HERE, and at NiagraGlenBouldering.com.

Beach Bouldering.

NS — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 00:45:03 +0000

I love Long Island. I love beaches. I love bouldering. See photos. ~~More coming soon.~~ (EDIT: I shot a ton of video, it’s in the archives until it gets cleaned up and edited (work in progress). See the >page<)

Back Side at sunset

It's so sexy. There's a bunch of moderate-to-hard stuff, plus easier (I think?) slab stuff on this side

Jump starts, slab topouts, the Long Island Sound at your back

The view when you enter... summer at its best...

Another very beautiful, very climbable boulder we didn't have time to climb... Day jobs always get in the way.

See the map if you need to know the specific location – East Marion, Long Island.

We’ll be there next weekend, too.

The F*&#ing Master Bedroom

pcummings — Wed, 31 Mar 2010 23:55:35 +0000

I’ve spent most of my climbing life in a little known bouldering area called the Master Bedroom. It’s a huge cave that boasts over a half a dozen double digit problems! Oh yeah! Its big and burly. Pure power problems. Its where climbers go to get bitch slapped by rock. I like to go here to work power. There’s nothing like the style of climbing this rock elicits. Your grunting through every move from start to finish.

Working War Cry (v11). Originally FA’d by Ivan Greene, this climb starts midway out the cave. Matt Bosley came through and found a deeper start off tiny edges to create Nuclear War (v14).

Setting up the drop knee on Pumpernickel (v8). One of the more “delicate” problems in the area. Photo: JC Hernandez

Moving into the crimps…Photo: JC Hernandez

This area offers probably the highest concentration of double digit problems in the north east! Git Some!!

-PC

Motivation, Exploration, and New Projects

NS — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 04:06:00 +0000

I’ve found that training motivation is largely cyclical. Sometimes you feel like anything is possible; that your body is an endlessly-adaptable machine, capable of conquering every project you throw its way. The counterpoint to those times are when you feel overwhelmed, as if everything has reached a plateau – your climbing progress, career, women, etc. It is finally looking like I’m cresting after an uphill battle, and coming up to a well-earned downhill ride.

Aided by the arrival of consecutive sunny, 50-degree days, I seem to have gotten past my mid-winter funk. Also, a drunk climbing injury I sustained a year ago has nearly healed – a bruised bone in my left great toe (healing is made easier when you know it’s a bone injury, thanks to $3000 worth of MRI scans). This has enabled me to run fast again, in addition to numerous other activities.

Lastly, a trip to New York for some bouldering has taken any semblance of an ego I ever had, and dumped all over it. I need to get much, much stronger to do the problems I worked, especially Catharsis (V9/10) [YouTube it]. That problem gave me a boner. And that was just the beginning of things. I’ve been incessantly campusing and hanging from my fingerboard in my asbestos-laden basement, finally with a clear goal in my mind.

And remember: if you’re not one-finger campusing, you’re not training.